Showing posts with label Eurovan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Eurovan. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 14, 2022

The Great Northwest: Part Two -- along the coast

The second part of our recent travels took us from the Oregon Coast, down through California's Redwood coast and ended up at a great County Park at Mount Madonna. 

We left the Columbia River Gorge, zipped by Portland, and started a week of exploring what was mostly new territory for us. We talked with the Oregon State Park folks on the phone, and took a chance on arriving at a popular beach park without reservations for the night. We were welcomed with a smile, and private campsite surrounded by shrubbery just behind the beach dunes. Cape Lookout State Park occupies a stretch of coast almost due east of Portland, and it was busy but not crowded.
Morning coffee in "Snowflake"


Lunch in a diner at Tillamook



Cape Lookout was just one of the many state parks scattered along the coast for the entire length of the state. We picked it because we had never seen it before, and we were able to get in! 

On the approach from the highway it was not all that impressive, but the campground turned out to be excellent, like all Oregon parks, with hookups available for those who want them and more open/isolated sites for tent campers who those who don't. Predictably, the section with electrical hookups where we stayed tended to be mostly retired or older travelers, and the tent area was full of younger couple and families.



But we were alone on the beach for sunset





And one dog walker







And this little girl had all that sand to play with




And Pat explored the stream flowing into the sea






Our only company was young people stacking rocks


One of many arch rocks offshore




And lots of plants along the trails






After two days lazing on the beach, and enjoying the cool weather, we were lured to our friends' home at Scapoose, on a tributary of the Columbia River, near Portland.



Michael and Sylvia have been friends since Sacramento, when we all sailed, camped, ate, drank wine and traveled the Mexican coast with them in their sailboat. After retiring from Sac State they dropped anchor on San Francisco Bay for a while at Point Richmond, then cashed out their condo and bought a floating home in Oregon. It is a three-bedroom house that floats, not a houseboat. Complete with decks, great views, a nature sanctuary across the waterway, and neighbors who paddle by. Michael is still a journalist, writing columns for a New York newspaper and other stuff, and Sylvia has re-invented herself  from her original professor role through Zumba and Yoga teacher, and now has a life coaching business based on the Internet.  The only thing they've done that surprised me is  added a lovely dog to the family. Turns out a floating home is safer than a sailboat on the ocean.


Catching up on the front deck

The neighbor, who provided salmon earlier, paddles by with his dog

The view out the back door. 



The greenery out back is vegetation growing on floating logs, the base for all the floating homes. It is old growth wood that has been wet for years, and does not sink. If you don't set a house on top, you get a garden every Spring.
The neighbor and his boat

Even I eat vegetarian when they cook.

Cape Blanco near Port Orford, Oregon, was our next stop after a boat tour of the neighboring houses in the area.

  The park at Cape Blanco may have been the best we experienced, but with so many good places it is hard to choose.

Another extraordinary place


The day we arrived it was storming, with what was initially a cool rain off the ocean that by morning turned into a howling gale -- for just a short while.


The campsite was tucked into the trees back from the edge of the bluff over the ocean.  

A good fire helped keep us warm, and the camper kept us dry.





About a half-mile to the North was the Cape Blanco lighthouse, a popular site and destination for visitors.

The lighthouse was closed due to high winds


But the park was still stunning, including a taste of real Northwest weather. No captions needed.









We went into Port Orford for some clam chowder at the Crazy Norwegian, and discovered a treasure: a 1930s-40s Coast Guard coastal watch station museum, with a great trail, big trees, views of the ocean, and a reminder that in this place the United States was attacked by a submarine-based airplane during WW2. 












Coast Guard crews launched rescue boats from this cove.


And then back to the beach.
Taking the same bluff-top trail to the South we came to the road down to the beach, one of most unusual we former Floridians have seen. It was almost paved with giant bleached logs, washed out the the rivers into the sea during winter storms, and then carried up on the beach by high tides.









Cape Blanco was a hard place to leave, but we had been on the road two weeks and had a family gathering further south.

But not before one-night stop at Gold Bluff campground at Prairie Creek State Park, back in California. Where the elk, not the deer, enjoy beachfront campground privileges.





Traffic was unpredictable


We moved further south, discovering a great park we had never visited: MacKirchener State Park near Fort Bragg. Great beaches. Great campground. Lots of trails and chances to watch for whales along the coast. Plus tide pools and sea lions.
The state park is on the right and runs for miles along the beach

A segment of Glass Beach at Fort Bragg


Our final stop on the 3,000 mile trip was at Mount Madonna County Park in the Santa Cruz mountains south of San Francisco.

Our daughter and son-in-law have been camping here for decades, and his family long before that. It is a quiet spot created on the former summer estate of a California land baron/cattlemen named Miller. Miller once owned more than a million acres stretching from Gilroy way into the San Joaquin Valley, and even up into Oregon and Washington.

The county has turned it into a place of respite. with emphasis on hiking trails, easy walks, an archery course and the ruins of the Miller summer home.

The pictures speak:


























Footnote: sorry about the overload (tmi)  but I could not help myself.

Safe travels.


Sunday, October 10, 2021

Part Four -- end of the trip

We left Monument Vallewy and drove through the Four Corners area touching Arizona, Utah and finally our destination Colorado. Our travel "goal" was a vague idea that we wanted to get back to the Rocky Mountains. We figured out, with encouragement from a friend, that Durango in Southwestern Colorado would be a good destination. And we wanted to see new places. It was a good plan, but things did not quite turn out the way we expected. We were going to drive north through the Rockies from Durango and visit some of the area we had seen briefly decades ago just West of Denver. When we got to Durango we learned three things: 1. Durango was jammed with tourists, and even in paid RV parks we could only find space for one night. 2. The highway we had planned to travel was closed during the day for construction, leaving us with a choice of sitting and waiting for hours, or finding another route. There was no other route that would not add several days of highway travel. 3. We were getting tired after more than a week on the road, and beginning to think of home. So we fought the traffic in Durango long enough to get into a grocery store and replenish our supplies, and then found a commercial RV park just outside of town overlooking the Animas River and the famous Durango-to-Silverton Railroad. Here is the a picture from the RV park, as Pat is sitting and visiting with a very interesting neighbor.
He is a professional musician and teacher named Bud Preston, who travels almost fulltime, but does his classes by Zoom from wherever he parks his home-made trailer that looks like a caboose. His RV spot was ideal, overlooking the tracks so he could see the steam engines puff by twice a day, with the river off in the distance. Ours little van was wedged between two rather large RVs, with just enough room for a picnic table. We have always preferred campgrounds to RV Parks, with few exceptions. This was a nice place and well run but just too close for us to relax. So we made a new plan, took a different route back to the West through the Colorado plains and back into Utah. That took us through Mexican Hat, Bluff and Monticello. We rode along the banks of the Colorado River briefly, and spotted Sand Island Park, home to these petroglyphys.
No matter where you go traveling, you find plenty of signs that you are not the first to pass this way. Because of the dry climate in the West, you get a much better view.
We wanted to see new places, which is why we did not return to Bryce Canyon and other most-popular parks, but since we were driving right by Arches National Park again we thought it was time to stop and check it out. We had learned that it was a highly impacted park, sometimes with lines backing out from the single entry gate, so we started early and arrived at the entrance around 8 a.m., in time to notice that the "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" was illuminated on the VW dash board.
On a 2002 Volkswagen that can mean an impending disaster, so I tried to find a reason, pulled out the manual and read that and in a stroke of wisdom called my son-in-law Brian who not only owns a VW-based camper (A Rialta) he is also a good mechanic. Brian sent me to the closest car parts store.
After an anxious minute or two the helpful young guy at the store in Moab plugged in his computer device paused, and then asked where my gas cap was located. He twisted it tight and the warning light instantly disappeared. Turns out the most common cause of the check engine light is a loose gas cap. Back to the park entrance, and only a short wait and we got in for the drive through another of America's wonders.
The Visitor Center was partially open, and we spent a few minutes admiring the sculptures. And a friendly tourist captured our photo.
And then we we off on the sometimes steep sometimes crowded road deep into the park. It is a one-way-in-and-out drive, and many of scenic overlooks were beginning to get crowded as were the hiking trails. We can vouch for the beauty of the park, and the fact that there are a potful of arches in every direction. Beauty was all around us.
Then we stopped for lunch on the "lonliest highway" at the Utah/Nevada border where, as you would expect, there is a cafe, motel and casino. You are back in Nevada.
On the way home we camped at Cold Springs in Nevada. This is in the middle of nowhere, on the lonliest road, somewhere east of Fallon. The place was near an old pony express station where a big fight took place in the 1800s. Nothing much has happened since then, but lots of people like the area for the wide-open BLM lands where you can drive your four-wheel cars and carts in every direction. We stayed in what they call the "dry camp" section, a polite way of saying we were up against the barbed wire fence with a view of cows, and the fence, and the desert. It was actually lovely, a billions stars at nights and very quiet. Plus good hot showers and a decent cafe. People in the cafe may look like desert rats, but they most likely work for the military on one of the bases scattered throughout the region. The military used to test nukes nearby.
Our last night on the road was in the Sierra Nevada, 7,000 feet up, in our favorite spot.
We were on the road two weeks, had no serious problems, and were reminded how much we love traveling in the West, or anywhere for that matter. The map gives you an idea, sloppily, of where we went. It doesn't look like much but it required 2,272 miles in a VW bus camper, technically a Eurovan. We were on wide open highways much of the time, able to travel at legal highway speeds. Despite running at 75 mph with the air conditioning on, it appears we averaged about 22 miles per gallon.
What would we do differently? Not much. The pace of travel was about right for us. We could spend more nights in one place but we were traveling to see the country and that required movement. And maybe pay more attention to finding good food, as we winged it in indifferent cafes and easy stuff to cook in camp. But the company was perfect, the scenery divine and we made it home safely. Send me ideas for our next trip!